The Canon A-series camera is perfect for taking macro shots. With a relatively cheap setup (under $100), the A-series camera will be ready to handle some truly amazing close-ups. Please feel free to ask specific questions as I have used an A85 with a reverse lens for quite some time. Best, Ivan
Essentially here is what you need for a Macro setup:
Note: all A series cameras can use a similar setup. The only thing different amongst the A60,70,80,90s is the filter adaptor you need to purchase. This will also work with other P&S cameras with front lens threads.
-52mm Filter Adaptor (for A-series)
-Reverse Ring Coupler with 52mm to whatever size your lens is threaded
-A 50mm SLR lens with an aperature of 1.8 or larger such as 1.4 (if
you are using a Canon FD 50mm you will need a special cutout rear cap
to keep the aperture open, just let me know if you need help with that)
- I highly recommend a basic slave flash with flash bracket as much light is lost with the addition of the reverse lens.
Some pics of the setup and a sample shot:
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The How-to and Pictures that insprired my fascination with Reverse Lens on my A85:
http://megaweb.clubsnap.org/articles/a70_reversed_35mmf2/
Other Useful Links:
http://members.cox.net/mannyfresh/equipment/
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=12423356
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Notes from forum posts:
For anyone interested in using a reverse mounted 35mm camera lens to do macro photography on a Canon A series camera with the optional 52mm Canon filter adapter, http://www.thecamerahunter.com has male 52mm to male 55mm (and many other sizes) available for ~$15. You can also check Bhphotovideo.com and search for "Macro Coupler".
The 52-55 I bought from them is a nice thin metal coupler that minimizes the distance from adapter to lens, which can be important to avoid vingnetting. I had excellent results using a Minolta 50mm f1.7. On the other hand, my 28mm had severe vignetting (but gave ~2x magnification over the 50mm). I found that even leaving the UV filter on the 50mm lens caused a little vignetting…so you really don’t want to stack up filter adapters.
With the 50mm lens, there was about a 3x increase in magnification over the A80’s lens. So you can fill the screen with an 18mm wide subject!
A lucky bonus: Since the adapter and lens block so much of the light from the flash, I was surprised to find that flash exposures were actually pretty good.
No Comments » | View Count: 694Remember you get what you pay for.? But within the same price range there is always a sharper lens…and every photographer knows the sharper the better.
Check out the lens performace results and the reviews on Fredmiranda.com
This should give you a good idea, but if you are still in doubt ask the folks over at DPreview in the Canon SLR Lens Talk forum.
Ivan 2 Comments » | View Count: 661A common answer on most message boards:
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
ttp://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46599
Those two links should cover just about every EOS flash topic.? Happy Reading.
Ivan No Comments » | View Count: 367Tricking AI servo, three ways I know… (works in ANY mode):
1. Achieve focus lock on a subject and then whilst keeping the shutter half depressed and the subject centered, move the lens focus ring - camera drops into AI servo and will stay there as long as the shutter is kept half depressed. (Only works with lenses that support full time manual focusing such as Canon USM and Sigma HSM lenses)
2. Achieve focus lock on a subject and whilst keeping the shutter half depressed use the lens zoom mechanism to zoom in slightly. Camera drops into AI servo and will stay there as long as the shutter is kept half depressed. Obviously only works with zoom lenses and doesn’t work with parfocal lenses.
3. Achieve focus lock on a relatively close subject and then whilst keeping the subject centered, and the shutter button half depressed take a step forward. Camera drops into AI servo and will stay there as long as the shutter is kept half depressed.
All three methods take a little practice and some methods work better with some lenses than others. Fairly easy to do though.Rick
No Comments » | View Count: 359Curious how long your camera is going to last.? Here is a rough estimate based on actuations:
300d - 350d? ~ 30,000+
20d ~ 50,000+
1d Mk2 ~ 250,000
Ivan
No Comments » | View Count: 345http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=SupportDetailAct&fcategoryid=215&modelid=10464
Click on "Product / Software Manuals", then download in whatever language you want.
Ivan No Comments » | View Count: 321A very interesting side by side comparison of the 350D/XT and a modified 300D:
http://www.camerahacker.com/Canon/DRebel_Comparison.shtml
Derek No Comments » | View Count: 343If you own a Canon 70-200mm f/4L, 300mm f/4L or 400mm f/5.6L
lens, you don’t have to spend $120 for the white tripod ring (Canon
Part: # 2889A002, "Canon Tripod Mount Ring A"). Instead, buy the black
version (Canon Part #: 2888A002, "Tripod Mounting Ring A for 200mm f/2.8L II").
This part is identical to the white version (targeted at L lenses) but
is painted black. Though not as asthetically pleasing, you do save $35!
Matt
The quickest and most used way according to forum users is to "format" the card in camera.??
Ivan
BrianP on Dpreview posted this:
If you need the speed, I would go for:
35 f/1.4 (if it is wide enough for you)
24 f/1.4 (if the 35 wasn’t wide enough)
If either speed doesn’t matter as much or you are on a tripod shooting landscape:
TS-E 24 f/3.5L (this is somewhat softer than the 35 above, but The Tilt and Shift features could be great)
TS-E 45 f/2.8 (this is a great lens, it might not be wide enough for you, but you have shift to help with this!)
Regarding the 50 f/1.8, it is a very nice lens, but it is built as
cheap as any lens could be. It is still a nice little lens though. You
could also pick up a 50 f/1.4 which is built much better, 2/3 stop
faster and offers FTM.
If you want to get into some crazy money for a fairly simple prime
(good though), you can look at lenses like the CZ 21. On top of being
rather crazy expensive for what it is, the lens is totally manual on a
EOS camera.
Regarding the 14 f/2.8 that EOS20 recommended, I wouldn’t personally go
for this one. It is expensive and known to be soft wide open. If it is
ok to be stopped down more, you already have the 10-22. If you want it
for the 5D, you can look at Sigma’s 12-24.
The specs say 1/250th for non-FP/ High-Speed flash units.? However, you can usually push it up to 1/320th without any vignetting.? This is helpful when you need the extra speed in outdoor situations. ?
Ivan
The histogram on the camera is based on a RGB-weighted luminance of the JPEG. There is *always* a JPEG, whether you have the camera set to take JPEGs or not. The RAW file, when you shoot RAW-only, has a 1.5MP JPEG embedded inside of it. The camera has absolutely zero facility for showing you the RAW exposure.Jake
No Comments » | View Count: 326Nikon Rubber Eyecup for FG, EM, FM-10, FE-10, N2000, N2020, N4004, N5005, N6006 & N50 Cameras
Mfr# 2939 ? B&H# NIECN6006
Slips on the 20D, no need for any fancy attachments or plates. Its only $5.95 at B&H. I have been using mine for 6 months and have been loving it. Best Cheap Mod
.Ivan
Teleconverters, either 1.4X or 2X, are efficient tools to add focal length to the photographer’s arsenal. However, universal-type teleconverters have certain limitations in performance when used with ultra-telephoto lenses of 200mm or longer as compensation of chromatic aberration alone becomes highly critical in this focal length range. The new PRO-series teleconverters are specifically designed and optimized for use with such ultra-telephoto lenses to deliver maximum resolution, contrast and color rendition without degrading any aspect of the master lens performance.
The 1.4X teleconverter will increase the focal length of the master lens by 1.4X and make the lens one f-stop slower. The 2X doubles the focal length of the master lens and makes the lens two f-stops slower. In addition to increasing focal length, both teleconverters allow greater magnification in macro since the Minimum Object Distance (MOD) of the master lens does not change when used with the teleconverters.
The 1.4X teleconverter can be used with both AF and MF lenses. AF will be retained if the master lens is F/4.5 or faster. AF will be retained with the 2X teleconverter if the master lens is F/4.0 or faster.
Tamron SP Pro-Series Teleconverters
The SP AF PRO-series teleconverters, with a newly designed optical construction (4-group/5-element for 1.4X and 4-group/7-element for 2X), are designed to be used with lenses that are F/2.8 and of focal lengths of 90mm or greater. This would make the use of the SP teleconverters ideal for the Tamron SP90mm F/2.8 macro, 70-210mm F/2.8 and 300mm F/2.8. Relative illumination is significantly improved resulting in better overall contrast and resolution across the entire image field. In addition, chromatic aberration and astigmatism are better compensated for by virtue of the use of higher-grade glass materials and more sophisticated design techniques than used in universal-type teleconverters. When used with lenses with smaller maximum apertures (F/4 and F/5.6, for example), there will be little difference in image quality as compared with the standard Tamron teleconverters. When used with lenses wider than 90mm, the SP teleconverters can actually comprise image quality.
Tamron Standard Teleconverters
The standard Tamron teleconverters extend the focal length by a factor of 1.4 or 2 respectfully and sustain the same light loss factors as the Pro-series. Though using a teleconverter on wide-angle lenses is never really recommended, these converters can be used with lenses that are wider than 90mm and are ideal for all lenses that are not F/2.8’s.Seth
No Comments » | View Count: 328No, you dont want one. There was an article about 3rd party grips. A number of grips and cameras were tested. Here was the bottom line: - All grips send optical trigger - Mismatch of color/shine/texture between the cameras and grips.
signal to the camera IR sensor through an optical fibre connection. The
cord gets in the way and doesn’t stay attached to the camera.
- Increased shutter lag.
- No control dial like the OEM grips.
- Fit and quality are not any better than OEM grips.
The Kenko 1.4X Pro 300 TC is hands down the winner behind the Canon 1.4x.? Obviously since it is almost twice the price.? The Kenko is superior to the Tamron as reported by independent user tests on DPreview.com.? If you decide to get the Kenko make sure it is the black one, which is the updated DG version. ?
Ivan No Comments » | View Count: 328Have you allowed enough time for the IS to settle
down before taking each photo ? It may not be stable for the first half
second after half-pressing the shutter button.? This is a pretty common problem among first time IS users.
Ted
Here is a list of some online Authorized Canon dealers:
1. www.bhphotovideo.com
2. www.amazon.com
3. www.zotzdigital.com
4. www.multiplezones.com
5. www.dell.com
6. www.800.com
7. www.photoalley.com
8. www.abesofmaine.com
9. www.buydig.com
10. www.butterflyphoto.com
11. www.staples.com
12. www.bestbuy.com
13. www.officedepot.com
14. www.officemax.com
15. www.compusa.com
16. www.costco.com
17. www.ritzcamera.com
18. www.onecall.com
19. www.americantv.com
20. www.electricsam.com
21. www.42photo.com
22. www.beachcamera.com
23. www.MPSuperstore.com
24. www.digitalphotoclub.com
25. www.frontgate.com
26. www.canogacamera.com
27. www.expresscameras.com
28. www.caicameras.com
29. www.nycv.com
30. www.frys.com
31. www.epixphoto.com